Tag Archives: uktrip

England with Susan Allen Toth

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When one is planning a trip to Great Britain Fodor’s, Lonely Planet, Blue Guide and Rick Steves all have maps, stars, rating systems, and specifics about sites to see, food to eat and places to stay.  Travel guides are incredibly helpful, but sometimes one prefers to sit at table with a steaming pot of tea and a friend who has just returned from England and listen to stories. 

Susan Allen Toth is just that friend, and she has written three books full of delightful narrative.  My Love Affair with England (1992) is a comfortable quilt pieced together from her multiple trips as a student, teacher, bride and  tourist.  In England As You Like It (1995) (my favorite of the three) Toth fleshes out her travel philosophy, shares more journeys and includes tons of practical wisdom such as the best souvenirs for friends at home.  With England for All Seasons (1997) Toth persuades you that England rewards those who travel outside the high season.  In a serendipitous chapter, she describes flying into Glasgow and driving to the Isle of Mull which is our exact itinerary (although we’re continuing on to Iona).

Susan writes about Susan’s (and James’ her husband) loves: above all walking and gardens.  In the same way that Wodehouse is wonderful, but too much Wodehouse in one sitting can be wearisome, all the walking was a bit much.  This is easily fixed by reading these books spaced between others on your pile.

Besides being an Anglophile, Susan is a bibliophile.  Literary referrences abound, especially in the vignettes about specific regions; I could abide in those abounding bookish notes.  Toth inspired me to design our trip more according to our interests and less from the dictates of the guidebooks.  Favorite bits from these lovely books:                

~  The Thumbprint Theory of Travel:  spend a week in a spot no larger than a thumbprint on a large scale map of England.  In theory I love this; but if, alas, your trip is once-in-a-lifetime this isn’t feasible.
~  Eating in England: eat big breakfasts, pubs are the place, drink lots of tea, delight in their dairy, when in doubt, order an omelet.  Buy fresh produce and fix your own meals in a self-catering flat.  Don’t forget ethnic food.

~  Souvenirs for friends: skip the trinkets, stop at the supermarket.  Buy exclusively English jams, marmalades, candies, crackers, relishes, biscuits, etc.

~  Travel journals: skip the facts and historical dates (buy the brochure for those), keep it short, include details which bring a moment back to you. Discipline yourself to write daily.

~ In Praise of Overpacking:  don’t waste time looking for it abroad if you can bring it.  This works best with the Thumbprint Theory. 

~ The joy of English place names.  If words delight you, read these books for all the glorious names.

Preparations for the U.K.

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Medieval monastery at Iona

We’re a little more than two months away from our U.K. trip.  A few friends have asked me to blog about the preparation for the trip.  So here’s my list of stuff to get done.  Two months.

~ update wills and follow through with required witnesses, copies to kids, etc.
~ increase physical stamina and endurance: up the time on the elliptical machine
~ scope and sequence, make final itinerary decisions.  We have 9 days in Scotland and 9 days in England.
~ finish making reservations
~ learn about money and currency exchanges
~ research travel passes for historical sites
~ learn how to take good pictures on camera
~ buy a laptop computer??
~ buy good walking shoes
~ read Fodor’s; watch Rick Steves; watch Globetrekker
~ finish Columba, read Susan Allen Toth’s second and third book (I finished My Love Affair with England this week),
~ in my dreams: read Bunyan, Stevenson, Milton, Burns, Johnson, Boswell, Buchan, and all the other classic British writers 

I want to be content and thankful for all of the trip.  I see two potential obstacles to contentment, although I’m sure there are dozens.

One is the romantic, idyllic picture I’ve allowed to build up in my mind about Great Britain.  I remember a conversation with a friend who lived in Scotland for a year.  I breathlessly asked, “What was it really like?” She thought a minute and said, “Smoky.  Lots of air pollution.”  [whistle of bomb exploding, dreams demolished] I am hoping for moments –not two solid weeks– of beauty, pleasure, nostalgia for the life I’ve read about.

Second potential obstacle is disappointment of not seeing [fill in the blank] or going [fill in the blank].  I’ve already (I think) crossed off the Highlands of Scotland.  Limiting the scope is essential. One must be reasonable. A librarian I know did a 15-day trip through England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland.  Ouch!  I want to be content and thankful for whatever we get to see.  No regrets allowed. Period.

I’ve thought about looking at the trip through a certain focus, one that is of interest to both Curt and me.  I’m saving the “Literary Journey through England” to a future trip with my sister-in-law or … to my dreams.  Susan Allen Toth and her husband visit English gardens.  Another friend (not the smoky Scotland friend) went to Scotland strictly to watch birds.  I asked about Edinburgh (from a panting interest on my part) and she shocked me by saying they never went to Edinburgh. (I had to take a few cleansing breaths.)

I’m considering a focus of cathedrals or ancient monasteries.  Iona has captured my imagination and is on the agenda.  We have extremely limited opportunities to hear pipe organs and see incredible architecture in our rural Oregon region.  My husband loves wildlife so we could major in cathedrals and minor in game preserves? Dear man, he is willing to go wherever I’d like to go.  He just wants to keep me safe and warm.