Nora Waln’s book, The Approaching Storm: One Woman’s Story of Germany, 1934-1938
Much about the culture was winsome. Here, regarding music:
It was usual to see people whose hands were callous with toil playing musical instruments. No gathering was without its song. They scattered music over their great river, over their wine-clad hills, and along their forest ways. (p.53)
About books:
I had entered Germany with the feeling that these people had no money for luxuries, and I had not yet learned that among vast numbers of them a book is not counted a luxury. I had never heard anyone express surprise on learning that a person had gone without meals or material things to buy a book. (p.118)
By far, my favorites passages were about the vineyards. If you’ve read Wendell Berry you will appreciate this. There were pages about tending vines, cultivating soil:
A vineyard keeper worthy of his title has his wood lot for poles, his field for potatoes, his orchard of fruit trees, his stabled cows, his dwelling house, and his vines. He eats bread of his wife’s making which is baked in the village oven, and the fire is banked over Sunday. His laundry is rubbed clean at home, rinsed in the clear waters of the Ahr, and bleached on the grass. He walks without arrogance but with self-respecting dignity. And, Protestant or Catholic, he brings his children up to earn their keep, pay their debts, revere God, and love the Fatherland. (p.151)
Beautiful roads:
The Germans build well. The roads are not ugly scars across their land they are things of beauty, exciting in their charm. They are invisible a short distance off; then one comes on them—silver ribbons. No telegraph poles, advertisements, rows of refreshment stands, gasoline stations, or ugly houses line their banks. (p.138)
I needed the review of the Reichs:
First Reich (Deutsche) the Holy Roman Empire established by Otto the First 962-1806 Second Reich (Second) Otto von Bismark, Hohenzollern Kings of Prussia 1862-1918
Third Reich (Drittle) National Socialist government, the Nazis
I learned about a cathedral to Saint Stephan in Vienna, the “Stefansdom”.
The Stefansdom has been raised in the same way [as Mongolian prayer mounds]. It is a heap of gifts to God. Each generation has made its offering in the fashion of the time—Romanesque, Gothic, baroque, and nineteenth century. Each piece is beautiful. (p.263)
But then she describes Hitler’s rule. It was impossible for a young boy to escape being in Hitler’s Youth. While they were often given extra latitude (Hitler had read and enjoyed a previous book Waln wrote) they saw the troubles their friends experienced. Soldiers were optimistic and accepted injustices to themselves with a spirited defense of the army.
One story about a Christmas dinner captured me. The hosts guests included Christians of Jewish descent. The maid and butler made a brouhaha, refused to serve the Jews, and quit in the middle of service. The hosts refused to let their friends leave and carried on amidst their own embarrassment.
Waln said that she was so traumatized in 1938 that she was unable to write.
I’m glad I read this book. Most of my questions weren’t answered, but one thing was clear. Most citizens were in denial as they gave up freedoms one by one.
A Living Pencil 
During WWII, my grandfather (who was too old to serve or he surely would have — he enlisted in WWI but the treaty was signed the day he was due to ship out of New Orleans) was a prison guard at Fort Chaffee, Arkansas, where he met many German POWs. They were all farm boys who had been forced into service with threats against their families, and hated the Nazis as much as we did. Many of them stayed in the area after the war ended.
What you wrote about the music and the culture reminds me of Alfred Hitchcock’s 1938 film The Lady Vanishes. Have you seen it? There’s an elderly English lady who loves the folk music and says that’s the heart of the people. She says, “I never judge a people by their politics.” I used to disagree strongly with that, but I’m learning to see the wisdom in it.
Sounds like a good book, Carol. I’m sure we’ll never understand all the reasons why the German people aquiesced to the Nazis, but I’m always fascinated to read about those who were far-seeing enough to resist. I just read A Higher Call which was a fascinating look at the German air force. Apparently most of the pilots disdained Hitler and his cronies.